AUBE

Saint-Malo · intra-muros · Wednesday to Sunday

Tonight's menu
was written at dawn.

Every morning, by sunrise, the boat is in, the leeks are pulled, and ten courses are on the board.

See tonight's tableReserve
Ten courses
€165
Wine pairing
€105
Seats
20

Tonight

Ten courses, one table.

Read the menu and it is served: each course arrives on the same table, in the order and at the hour it would tonight. Pour the pairing to see what goes in the glass.

Three rock oysters on crushed ice and seaweed, each under a spoon of frozen buttermilk and drops of dill oil, on a black plate.

01/10 · 19:00

  1. frozen buttermilk, dill

    From
    Le Goff boat, Cancale
    Poured
    Muscadet Sèvre et Maine · Loire, 2022

  2. baked in hay, smoked curd, rye

    From
    Jardin des Ondes, Saint-Méloir
    Poured
    Chenin Blanc, Anjou · Loire, 2021

  3. charred, brown butter, hazelnut

    From
    Jardin des Ondes, Saint-Méloir
    Poured
    Grüner Veltliner · Wachau, 2022

  4. cured yolk, pine

    From
    Marthe Roux, Brocéliande
    Poured
    Skin-contact Pinot Gris · Alsace, 2021

  5. salt-baked, walnut, sherry

    From
    Jardin des Ondes, Saint-Méloir
    Poured
    Fino Sherry · Jerez

  6. line-caught, sea herbs, verjus

    From
    Le Goff boat, Cancale
    Poured
    Chablis Premier Cru · Burgundy, 2021

  7. aged fourteen days, blackberry, juniper

    From
    Hung in our own cellar
    Poured
    Morgon, Côte du Py · Beaujolais, 2020

  8. twenty-four months, quince

    From
    Ferme de Launay, Rance valley
    Poured
    Vin Jaune · Jura, 2015

  9. sorrel, buttermilk

    From
    Jardin des Ondes, Saint-Méloir
    Poured
    Poiré Domfrontais · Normandy

  10. burnt, cultured cream, rye

    From
    Ferme de Launay · Ruchers du Clos
    Poured
    Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos · Tokaj, 2016

Ten courses €165 · wine pairing €105 · juice pairing €55. No substitutions — tell us what you can't eat when you book, and the kitchen writes around it.

This morning

Before sunrise.

Nothing on the menu is ordered a week ahead. It is written each morning from what came in before the sun was up — so the order of the deliveries is the order of the decisions.

  1. —

    The Le Goff boat comes into Cancale

    Oysters from the beds below the harbour, and whatever turbot took the line overnight. If there is no turbot, there is no sixth course: we write a different one.

    Becomes01 Oyster06 Turbot

    A small wooden fishing boat coming into a stone harbour on a still, misty sea at first light.

  2. —

    Ferme de Launay brings the morning's dairy

    Buttermilk and curd from yesterday's milk, cream set overnight, and one wheel of tomme chosen from the cellar for the cheese course.

    Becomes02 Beetroot08 Tomme09 Pear10 Buckwheat honey

    Wheels of aged cheese on long spruce shelves in a stone cellar, lit by one small window at dawn.

  3. —

    Leeks are pulled in the frost at Saint-Méloir

    The garden sends what is ready, not what was ordered. This week: leeks, beetroot, celeriac, sorrel, and the last pears from the wall.

    Becomes02 Beetroot03 Leek05 Celeriac09 Pear

    Rows of frosted leeks and kale in a market garden at sunrise, a crate of pulled leeks in front.

  4. —

    Marthe Roux walks out of Brocéliande

    Ceps, pine tips, juniper and the season's last blackberries. Marthe forages on her own terms; some mornings the basket is half full, and the menu shrinks.

    Becomes04 Cep07 Duck

    A wicker basket of ceps on moss and beech leaves in a misty forest, low first light between the trunks.

  5. —

    The duck comes up from the cold room

    Hung for fourteen days in our own cellar. It is the only thing on the menu that was decided before this morning.

    Becomes07 Duck

  6. Dawn

    Sunrise. The menu is written.

    The times above move with it through the year: in June the boat is in before five.

The vaulted stone cellar under the restaurant: racks of bottles along the curved walls, one candle on an oak barrel.

The cellar

Under the vault.

Small growers, mostly from the Loire, one sip from the sea. Every pairing wine is also poured on its own.

  • Grower Champagne, Brut Nature 2019

    Côte des Bar

    €21

  • Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2022

    Loire

    €12

  • Chenin Blanc, Anjou 2021

    Loire

    €16

  • Chablis Premier Cru 2021

    Burgundy

    €19

  • Skin-contact Pinot Gris 2021

    Alsace

    €15

  • Morgon, Côte du Py 2020

    Beaujolais

    €16

  • Vin Jaune 2015

    Jura

    €22

  • Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2016

    Tokaj

    €18
The dining room in the evening: linen-covered tables with single candles under a low stone vault, the open kitchen glowing at the far end.

The room

Twenty seats, two ways to sit.

A table set for the evening, from above: linen napkin, bone-handled cutlery, a stemmed glass and a lit beeswax candle on dark oak.

The room

Twelve tables under a seventeenth-century vault, lit by candle. The kitchen is at the far end; you will hear it more than see it.

18:30 or 21:00 · up to six guests

The chef's counter at night: eight leather stools at a long oak counter facing the lit pass, one place set.

The counter

Eight seats facing the pass. The cooks serve you themselves and tell you where each plate came from that morning. One sitting.

19:30 · up to four guests

Reserve

An evening at Aube.

Where
Evening
Guests
2
Sitting — choose an evening first
In the glass
Anything the kitchen should know